Loei: Chillin' in Chiang Khan

By Kinnareemas

Filled with fog, Chai Khong Road in Loei's Chiang Khan district provides visitors with a captivating early morning experience.

The district is located alongside the Khong River, which stretches over a distance of several hundred kilometers along the border between Thailand and the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Lao PDR). Located 560 kilometers north of Bangkok, Chiang Khan attracts a large number of domestic tourists, who are keen to gain an insight into the local residents' day-to-day existence in the impressive rural locale.


Antique Row Houses

Both sides of Chai Khong Road feature antique, two-story wooden row houses, where many families have resided for generations. You can still see examples of the significant Chinese influence, such as on the folding doors, the verandas and the spacious area in front of the first floor, which were typically used for commercial purposes. Residents would usually use the main area just inside the house as a form of lounge, while the area just behind the building was most commonly utilized as a kitchen.



According to official documents originating in the district, the row houses were built at various points in time between 1930-1970. During this period, Thai and Lao merchants would use the district as a place to stop off and take a rest during their travels. Although most of the current residents have renovated the buildings, they have maintained a good deal of the original features and style. It's possible for visitors to stay overnight in a row house as many owners have opted to open their residences up as lodges or guest houses.

Some of the residences along the same road feature walls made from the waxy outer layer of bamboo, covered with lime mortar. These buildings are thought to be over 100 years old and have been allowed to fall into disrepair.



Some of the other row houses within the same neighborhood do show signs of modernity, with some residents choosing to adopt a compromising approach by using wooden logs or planks to decorate the exterior of their homes, or by modifying the height of the second floor.

The late afternoon is probably the most exciting part of the day in Chiang Khan district. Since the temperature usually begins to drop around this time, visitors tend to head for the shade provided along Chai Khong Road, where they can enjoy a stroll alongside the impressive row houses, or shop for souvenirs at the gift shops located in the area.


Gift Ideas Galore
Throughout the year, you can find an almost fair-like atmosphere as a huge array of goods are on sale, including candles, fashion accessories, key chains, magnets, ornaments and other items relating to home décor, picture frames, postcards and T-shirts. While some of these are produced locally, other goods are brought to Chiang Khan from Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Several kinds of crafts produced by the Tai Dum hill tribe from a nearby village are also available for purchase here, such as woven lengths of cloth, scarves, as well as good luck charms.


This shopping area tends to offer a good deal more than you would typically find on offer at souvenir stores. All the stores are nicely decorated and the clever use of fairy lights makes this a popular spot for taking photos.

Many of the stores have decorated their walls with photos and postcards from yesteryear. You can find plenty of antique or retro goods, too, such as post boxes, bicycles and colorful flower pots. The owners are generally happy for visitors to take photos in and around their stores without interference.


Tasty Treats
Another interesting way of exploring the area is to sample the local food.

In this case, there are two noodle-based dishes that are particularly popular among the residents of Chiang Khan.

Khao pun nam jaew is made from thin, round noodles that are served with pork ribs, liver and intestines in a pork-based soup. Local people tend to adjust the flavor by adding a combination of chili paste, lime, basil leaves, bean sprouts and shrimp paste, based upon their individual preferences. Khao piak comprises Vietnamese round noodles with ground pork balls and Vietnamese sausages in a pork-based soup. If you wish, you can also ask for half a boiled egg to be included with the soup.




These two dishes are widely available at food stalls located along Chai Khong Road, as well as in the main commercial center of the district, which is located just a few blocks away.

Whether it's the haunting morning fog, the district's antique wooden row houses, or the impressive shopping possibilities available later in the day, Chiang Khan offers visitors to the district a wealth of possibilities.




Transport Connections:
Bus: Air-conditioned and regular buses, operated by various private companies, depart Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit) during the evening (operating from about 7 pm to 10 pm). The bus journey takes between eight and nine hours and the fare (single) is between 347-694 baht, depending on the kind of bus you opt for.

For further information regarding the bus schedule, call Tel: +66 (0)2 936 2841-48, extension 311 and 442.





source: Tannetwork.tv