Sun, scuba and swashbuckling: Getting in deep on the Spanish colony of Ceuta

By OLIVER PICKUP

Royal Walls: Ceuta, the Spanish colony on the tip of north Africa, has been fought over for centuries and its rich history can be understood when you scale the old ramparts


From the ferry’s balcony deck, the rich green and dusty brown hues of Ceuta contort and blur like smudges from a child’s finger painting.

We had passed the imposing Rock of Gibraltar some 20 minutes ago and as we near the Spanish colony, on the very tip of north Africa, the dark hills of nearby Morocco shimmer as they sharpen into focus.

I begin to sense the apprehension traders centuries ago must have felt when first entering this port, the gateway to Africa.

For those Europeans brave enough to venture this far south, there was a hope - rather than promise - of untold wealth and delights, balanced by a dread of the unknown.

In Homer’s Odyssey, Odysseus wanders these shores on his way home to Ithaca. Go that extra nautical mile, away from the well-trodden beaches of the Costa Blanca, and you, too, will be paid back handsomely on your own journey.

For Ceuta (pronounced See-oo-ta) is a place of tranquility, a small cosmopolitan city - 76,000 at the last count - with unique fauna and flora, thanks to its positioning, at the point where the brutal Atlantic Ocean meets with the calmer Mediterranean Sea.

With an average yearly temperature of 19 degrees and a lively but well contained nightlife, it is ideal for families, or water sports fanatics. It is a place steeped in history - and most of it remains uncovered and untouched. Some locals would like to keep it that way, lest it spoil their relaxed way of life. But that only adds to its special appeal.


Splash landing: The pillars of Hercules (left), which can be seen at the mouth of the harbour, and Oliver Pickup takes the plunge when aquatic trekking


On that hour-long ferry journey from Algeciras across the Strait of Gibraltar, after flying into Malaga from London, I could only guess at what treasures my four-day stay in Ceuta would unearth.

Indeed, it is no disgrace to admit to having never heard of the place before. I’d only stumbled across it earlier this year by chance when reading about the history of African football.

In the 1920s and 1930s African footballers travelled north and would scramble over the Moroccan border into Ceuta and the lucky, undetected ones would go on to seek fame and fortune in the European leagues.

There was that, I thought, and the fact that Nayim - the Zaragoza midfielder who famously lobbed Arsenal’s David Seaman in the 1995 Uefa Cup final - was born there.

But what else? My tank was empty and guessing at what to expect in Ceuta proved futile - my sketchy predictions were blown out of the water.


The Spanish colony of Ceuta lies where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea


I enjoyed a magical time scuba diving, aquatic trekking, night kayaking and even managed to catch a fish for the first time in my life - some achievement considering I’m nearing my thirtieth year.

And it was no tiddler, either: a 20-inch ‘bonito’, a member of the tuna family. It proved a tasty catch, too, cooked as it was, in Moroccan style, filleted and served with salted potatoes, spices, liberally drizzled with local olive oil and accompanied with a bottle of crisp white wine.

Before all that, entering the harbour, Keke Raggio, my guide, pointed to an impressive statue at its mouth. It was of Hercules, straining to push apart two pillars. According to Roman legend, the powerful god separated Gibraltar and Ceuta, represented by the columns.

After being taken on a tour around the Royal Walls by Keke, I soon realised that Ceuta has so much more to offer than simply sea, sand and senoritas; though it can provide those in (beach) spades.



Scramble: Rafael Jimenez takes Oliver aquatic trekking and on the right, Rafa and Oliver poses for the camera


Wandering the imposing fortified walls - complete with cannon ball holes and bow-and-arrow slits - I learned that, owing to it’s positioning as the frontier of north Africa, and strength as a strategic outpost for ancient armies, Ceuta has been fought over and changed hands numerous times. The result is a fascinating hodge-podge - or ‘fishbowl’, as Keke offered - of culture, influence and design which is not restricted to just the architecture.

After the tour of the Royal Walls, which are positioned in the middle of the city and have a moat running though them - which a couple of days later we serenely kayaked along - I enjoyed a wonderful seafood platter at a restaurant positioned within the walls.

I’m told more about the city’s history and it’s unique make-up of different cultures, all living homogeneously but happily together, over dishes of fried eels, peppers and soft boiled eggs, calamari, Gallo fish with prawns, crustacean pate and crab meat, soaked down with local white wine.

The Greeks, followed by the Romans, planted their flags before the Arabs took control in 709. Then, in 1415, the gallivanting Portuguese seized power. Indeed, Ceuta was their first step on a successful conquest of north African countries like Mozambique and Mombasa.


Deep blue: Oliver goes scuba diving off the Ceuta coast and spies fish and eels


The Spanish wrestled Ceuta from the Portuguese and have held on to it ever since - not that there is any threat now. People from a handful of cultures mix easily, strolling from the colonial Africa Square, to the synagogue or the mosque on to the hustle-and-bustle of the market, where anything from fish, spices and Moroccan goods can be purchased.

Famous Spanish architect César Manrique's vast and modern Maritime Park, by the harbour, is a manifestation of those various tribes and, with its swimming facilities, bars and restaurants is an important feature of the city, especially in the summer, when it's only 3 euros to enter.

And keeping everyone happy is the most popular politician in Spain. At the last poll Juan Bautista Vilar had an approval rating of 80 per cent - and the friendly mood of the locals reflects that peace and contentment.


Water sports: Scuba diving around Ceuta is excellent and many unique fish can be found - and caught as shown on the right, where Oliver poses with guide Keke Raggio


After a good night’s rest at the four-star Parador de Ceuta Hotel, positioned in Africa Square - an impressive central, colonial-styled plaza - I head to one of the city’s two main beaches for some aquatic trekking.

I wasn't entirely sure what 'aquatic trekking' was but was relieved to find out it did not involve slowly clambering along the seabed in a diving bell suit, as one friend had joked.

Zipped up in a neoprene water suit and handed a plastic helmet, I followed my guide, Rafa, who set off along the jagged coastline at some pace. Jumping from rock to rock-pool and scrambling from overhang to crevice, I soon heated up in the morning sunshine.

When, after 20 minutes, the first opportunity to tombstone into the water arose, I gave it no second thought and hurled myself into the waves from three metres above sea level.

Refreshed and exhilarated, it was certainly a different way to view a coastline. We would later take a boat around the circumference of the island, which took an hour at a sedate pace, but the aquatic trekking got the heart pumping a little quicker.


Something fishy: Oliver catches his first ever fish, a bonito, a member of the tuna family


Tasty: The caught bonito was cooked Moroccan style, with tomatoes and spices and drizzled with local olive oil


Scuba diving was next up, and having passed my PADI course some six years previous - and not dived since - I was a little apprehensive. My request for a refresher lesson was laughed off, and next thing I knew I was jumping, back-first, off the dingy. In honesty, the diver buddying with me chaperoned well, pointing out the wonderful fish and eels which lit up in front of my steamed-up goggles.

The highlight of my ocean adventures was deep-sea fishing, which happened at 6am on my last morning in Ceuta. With sunrise not expected for another two hours, this period, I was informed by skipper and local policeman Geraldo Valero, was the best for catching fish. In the darkness, and with no boats zooming around they were more likely to take the bait.

Half-asleep, I was called into action almost immediately as the rod positioned at the back of Geraldo’s gently moving boat arched 90 degrees with vigorous force.

Instinctively I took the metal stick in my grasp and, in a rather ungainly manner, reeled in the silver fish to my elation.


More delicious treats: Another fish was filleted and, right, Oliver takes on the waters in a night kayak


On the ferry headed back to the Spanish mainland, still sated by the delicious bonito fish and white wine, I looked back at Ceuta, as it drifted from view, with a great sense of fulfillment. Its magical cultural heritage, coupled with a range of watersports, makes it a holiday destination young and old will love, just like the explorers centuries ago.

Then, as now, those adventurous enough will be richly rewarded with sumptuous experiences, resplendent sights and bountiful feasts.


Travel facts
Flights from London to Malaga are serviced by easyJet, Air Lingus and Monarach, among others. You could also fly to Tangers or Gibraltar. And if you book well enough in advance, you can pick up a return flight for £80 return.

A return ticket on the 60-minute bus from Malaga Airport to Algeciras ferry port costs £36; a four-person return taxi costs £200. A helicopter from Algerciras to Ceuta will set you back £232.

The ferry costs £50 return.

Accommodation
Hotel Parador, La Muralla, costs £65-95 a night, and can be found at www.parador.es.

Water sports
The Empresa Diving Centre, run by Francis Valero, is the best place to go: visit www.ceutabuceo.com, or email divingcenterceuta@ceutabuceo.com.

A two-hour snorkel will cost you £24 per person. And a two-hour scuba dive will set you back £50, including equipment.

You can also charter boats from Francis - an eight-hour trip for six people will cost £240 for the boat.

Fishing can be done through Geraldo Valero, who can be reached on info@charterceuta.com - see www.charterceuta.com and www.pescaceuta.com.

There are various rates, but an eight-hour trip for six people, with all the kit included, will cost £400 in all, for example.

Kayaking can be done through Carlos Galet of Club Kayak Aventura (kayakceuta@hotmail.com) - two hours, day or night, will cost you £16.

Rafa Jimenez is the man you need to talk to about aquatic trekking and he can be reached on info@viajesfortur.com through www.viajesfortur.com. A four-hour scramble will cost one person £22.

Go to www.spain.info/uk or e-mail the Spanish Tourist Office in London on info.londres@tourspain.es, or call 020 7486 8077


source: dailymail